We originally planned a weeklong stay in Lucca, but after only a day or two we could clearly see that this was much too brief, so we're staying at least another week. On Tuesday, we dragged our roller bags across the stone pavers from one apartment to the other amidst a steady downpour. We really enjoyed the previous apartment but we're tempted to tell the owner of the new place that we're never leaving. Aside from relocating a few blocks within Lucca, we also managed to squeeze in a couple day trips. On Monday we took a short train ride to the seaside town of Viareggio and the day before Thanksgiving, we made it over to foggy Florence.
Lucca
This town is a gem. It has what appears to be an extremely high quality of life. If long-term rental apartments can be gotten we're tempted to find a way to get one. Sam and I have a slight Green Acres-esque dichotomy regarding our ideal housing. I'd love to be in a city with lots of excellent food markets and restaurants while Sam craves peace and quiet. Somehow this town might offer both of these very different environs at the same time. It's a great city for walking and biking, taking the train, proximity to mountains and coast. The other day we decided to take a walk to a bridge that seemed like it might have a great view and soon after we were embarking on a 10 mile walk on an incredible shared use path out of the city in the countryside. That's in addition to the top of the intact mediaeval wall around the city that is also an excellent walking and biking path. On the city side, though, the quality of food markets is great too! The biggest concern is that we hear lots of other Americans when we walk around. It's not as tourist packed as other nearby towns, but it's clearly on the beaten path. Do the locals really want two more?
Friendly, Foggy Florence
Speaking of the tourist path, yesterday we roused early to take a train over to always popular Florence where we were treated like VIPs by a charming couple. As mentioned previously, an acquaintance (now friend) of Sam's created a spreadsheet for us with cities we should consider visiting as possible places to live. That new friend and her husband live in the heart of Florence and graciously offered to show us around. We left Lucca in sunny but chilly weather, but halfway down the train line, it got extremely foggy. By the time we arrived in Florence, you couldn't see a thing! And these lovely hosts had told us that the first order of business was driving us above the city to take in a panoramic view. We went up that hill and you'd never know Florence was out there somewhere. But after we went into a church and ogled its amazing art, the fog started to burn off and the city appeared. Our friends gave an incredible tour filled with history lessons, delicious food and drink, and pleasant company. They even bought us a little book about Florence as a gift (along with some homemade quince sweet and chestnut sweet). As with the Greeks, hospitality is a double edged sword...we wanted to pay for coffees, lunch, or the parking garage but they wouldn't let us. They told us that during past visits to America, people were extremely kind to them and they wanted to repay that generosity. It's nice to hear an outsider speak kindly about our homeland, especially these days.
Viareggio
We also had a craving to see the sea and depending on which train you take from Lucca, you can be in the seaside town of Viareggio in 17 minutes. We'd heard the town talked about in somewhat disparaging tones, but it's lovely. It's filled with art nouveau and other early 20th century architectural flourishes. We could imagine it being used in a Wes Anderson movie. It wasn't quite a ghost town this time of year but it was close. Luckily we did find a gelato place open before the rains began and we hightailed it back for that 17 minute train ride to our (sadly) temporary nest in Lucca.
We just finished our very nontraditional Thanksgiving dinner after going to some artisan shops for provisions today. We are thankful for so, so many things these days. We hope that all who read this are well and have a good holiday!
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From the train from Lucca to Florence
 | | On our morning walk from Lucca's old center to the train station |
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| The thick fog above Florence (with a copy of Michelangelo's David in the photo) |
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| Florence revealed |
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| Just about every surface in Florence is eye-catching |
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| Near the Uffizzi |
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| Fried artichokes for lunch in Florence |
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| Adorable fountain in Viareggio |
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| One of the swank hotel exteriors in Viareggio |
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| A fairly typical Viareggio building, with gorgeous details |
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| The coast at Viareggio (we saw lots of surfers here) |
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| One of the well-known piazzas in Lucca |
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| On our walk outside of Lucca |
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| Rain doesn't stop cycling in Lucca... |
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| ...you just use your umbrella (as many locals do) |
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| But there are lovely paths to ride around here |
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And you will need to cycle because of the tempting sweets. Here's a pistachio cannoli inside a doughnut shell (what?!)
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Blow-torching chicken quarters we bought for our holiday meal, because that's how it's done right
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Somehow Italians can make rubbish disposal and recycling look stylish
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| But remember that even Italian toilets have their limits |
